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[黄山日报]婺源豆腐宴

发布时间:2018-08-27 07:06:04  作者:潘琳  来源:黄山日报  点击数:载入中…

  □ 潘琳

  有一道美食貌似非常平淡,但它的诞生伴随着神奇的传说。西汉炼丹专家淮南王刘安炼制丹药时,一不小心练成了色如白雪、香如菊花、嫩如凉粉、滑如凝脂的“离祁”,也就是后人所说的豆腐,从此,这道妙不可言的美食,人们的餐桌几乎离不开它的身影。

  李时珍的《本草纲目卷七·谷部》中,豆腐主治“和脾胃,消胀满,下大肠浊气,清热的、散血”,高蛋白,低脂肪,被称为“植物肉”,有降血压、降血脂、降胆固醇的功效。

  可口的美食离不开优质之水。位于皖浙赣三省交界的婺源,是万安河发源地,境内清澈的溪涧山泉之水,清洌甘甜。水好,做的豆腐自然属极品。

  婺源豆腐,以沱川豆腐为最,远近闻名。

  沱川位于婺源北端边陲,2003年,江西省政府首次命名了一批“历史文化名村”,沱川的理坑村就荣列其中。理坑古称理源,背靠雄伟的驼峰山,面朝理源溪,溪水呈“S”形环抱理坑村。《沱川余氏宗谱》记载:沱川余氏始祖余道潜,与朱熹的父亲朱松是宋徽宗政和八年(1118)同科进士。余道潜于庚子年(1120)由安徽桐城迁沱川篁村。其后代余景阳,于1206年迁居理坑,距今巳近800年。

  理坑人好读成风,人才辈出,崇尚“读朱子之书,服朱子之教,秉朱子之礼”,在明末至清朝中叶最为鼎盛,经科举考试中进士者有16人,被文人学者赞为“理学渊源”。沱川的菜系与婺源别处有所区别,沱川菜是文人菜,既有徽州家常菜的特色,又伴着书香气息,偏重于清淡平和的口味,有“人间有味是清欢”的内涵。

  随着婺源旅游业的蓬勃发展,在杭州从事厨师近20年的沱川人余俊卿,带着妻子黑妞,放弃了酒店的高薪,回到家乡,在秀丽的飞凤峡边开起餐馆,经营着他们的梦想。每天早晨,夫妻俩都要从离村子三里外的一家祖传豆腐坊,采购大量的豆腐制品:嫩豆腐、五香豆干、豆腐角、豆腐皮……

  沱川人做的豆腐,入菜品种繁多,有豆腐角炖排骨,有热涮豆腐,有五香豆干,有豆腐皮……

  说到豆腐,就不能不提到婺源婚宴的扛把子“糊豆腐”。作为婚宴第一道菜肴,糊豆腐是有讲究的,糊是烧制技法,婺源地处山区,山多田少,交通不畅,商业物资不流通,为了果腹,历史地选择了粉蒸或糊为家常烹饪技艺。然而,从健康饮食角度,用米粉糊菜,有了米粉的调和作用,补充碳水化合物,保护了胃黏膜,减少对胃的刺激,达到护肝养胃的保健作用。

  那水灵灵白嫩嫩的豆腐如婴儿的肌肤般细腻润滑,还能依照婺源传统的粉蒸烹饪技艺,将豆腐沾上薄薄的一层混有少量干紫苏末的籼米粉,平铺在菖蒲上,把新鲜紫苏、红椒、腊肉、蒜蓉和生姜切成末,加上适量米粉和食盐拌和,均匀地撒在豆腐上,入锅蒸熟,最后浇上熟油。沱川豆腐既嫩又韧,又有腊肉熏香,又有菖蒲的淡淡清香,还有紫苏的增香提味,这美味不亚于草鱼,被当地人称为“素塘鱼”,是沱川绝无仅有的家乡菜。

  在沱川旅游,没品尝“红烧鹅颈”就不算真正到过沱川。余俊卿告诉游客:沱川的红烧鹅颈,并非真的鹅脖子,是以精肉、肥膘肉、豆腐为主要原料,剁成肉茸,辅以红薯粉(淀粉),加适量的精盐、料酒、葱姜末,均匀搅拌,将馅卷入薄如羽翼般透明的豆腐衣中,包裹成直径为2.5厘米的卷,用蛋液粘合,入油锅炸至金黄色。捞起后,切成斜刀小段,菜品豆腐衣微皱,包裹着肉茸,不论是形状还是口味都几乎可“以假乱真”。余俊卿说:烹饪“鹅颈”这道菜的火候很重要,关键在于油温的掌控,不能太高,否则会焦黑,影响色泽和口感。只有炸得金黄酥脆,才称得上是一道合格的婺源“鹅颈”,颇有儒家中庸之道。红烧“鹅颈”的做法是:将冬笋片(笋干片)、香菇片在油锅中略炒,放入“鹅颈”,加入高汤、料酒、精盐、白糖、味精,然后盖上锅盖焖烧数分钟,用水淀粉勾芡,然后装盘,肉嫩味鲜。

  村民张坤盛告诉我,沱川的毛豆腐有两种吃法,一种叫“香豆腐”,待豆腐长毛后,蘸上辣椒粉和食盐,放入姜丝,在坛里泡上米酒,腌制起来;还有霉(毛)豆腐,将长白毛的豆腐在油锅里煎成金黄色,浇上辣椒酱醮着吃。

  我外祖父是沱川人,从小看到母亲给外祖父做“热涮豆腐”,就是把一整块嫩豆腐放沸水中煮,去掉豆腥味,浇上辣椒粉、食盐和酱油,在外祖父眼里,就是美味佳肴,我目瞪口呆,豆腐居然能这样大道至简!

  虽说豆渣是豆腐的下脚料,却是很好的健康食品。用新鲜豆渣做成的“雪花丸子”,是倍受欢迎的婺源传统特色小吃,婺源人采用新鲜豆渣,拌入腊肉丁、冬笋丁、水发香菇丁、虾米、豆豉、干辣椒末、蒜茸,用适量食盐和菜籽油调味,捏成乒乓球大小的丸子,入锅蒸熟,让人没齿难忘。

  平常的鱼头豆腐,不平常的滋味。终年养在流水清泉中的冷水塘鱼,经过原生态投喂,受到了山泉水的纯净洗礼,已无泥腥味,和它的“黄金搭档”豆腐完美结合,在奶白色鱼汤中,犹如一幅水墨婺源山水画,香味迂回环绕直扑鼻端,真叫人垂涎欲滴。

  豆腐角,是将豆腐的对角线切成三角形,表皮炸至金黄色,外酥里嫩。豆腐角也有两种烧法。排骨豆腐角,是浙源沱川一带的名菜,用筒骨炖豆腐角,是喜宴上的一道传统佳肴,将豆腐角放进筒骨汤中文火慢炖,使骨汤渗透进豆腐角而受味,汤鲜味美,咬上一口豆腐角,浓浓的排骨汤沿着嘴角往下流;豆腐盂,是把豆腐角的一边切开,掏出里面的豆腐,与肉末、葱末搅拌,加入适量食盐和少许淀粉,塞入豆腐角里,再裹上米粉,入锅蒸熟。

  在婺源,五香豆干只有沱川的豆腐坊制作,豆腐坊的制作方法也与别处不同,在洁白的豆干抹上香料粉,腌渍,水煮,无论是素炒,还是炒肉,都能香气四溢,诱惑着人的味蕾。

  此外,沱川的豆腐宴,豆腐花、臭豆腐、家常豆腐……几十道菜肴轮翻登场。煎、炒、蒸、炸、糊,一桌豆腐宴,细品人生百味,浓缩世间精华。

【编辑:万俊奇】
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